We did something that turned out to be less than desirable today. Our host at the hostel was very friendly and knew a little English. While we loaded the bikes we discussed our plans and he seemed to be telling us to go through Potosi rather than directly to Uyuni. He indicated that the road was better, and although the distance was greater, the traveling time would be less.
Potosi turned out to be the most confusing City we’ve ever driven in. Our maps were drawn as if on the flat with square blocks and straight streets. Not a chance, the city is built on the side of the mountain that was raided by the Spanish for its silver. Although streets were named on our city map, we never saw a single street sign in town and tried to find our way by gut feel.
After lunch we asked several people, including 2 policia, how to get out of town toward Uyuni. A note about the Policia. They are mostly very young men and although they carry guns they probably have never been more than 20 Kms outside their home towns. Most of them didn’t seem to have a clue.
A gas station attendant seemed the most believable, so we took his advice. We turned off the highway onto a cobblestone road that seemed like it should be right.
After driving 35 kms it gradually deteriorated to a dirt road. Then we hit severe switchbacks leading to a mining area, and decided we couldn’t continue. This must be the wrong road.
Retracing our steps we headed back to Potosi. Going back down from the mine we suddenly realized we had just passed thru a large farming area. The crops… coca.
I wonder how much of this is chewed by the indigenous people and how much is snorted by rich people in North America?
On the way back we saw a sign for the turn-off that we were supposed to have taken on our way out of town. (There was no sign for the turn-off leaving town.) Signage in South America leaves a lot to be desired!
We ended the day back in Potosi. After going in circles for an hour or so, we finally located a hotel which was given good reviews in our Bolivia book. It had apparently seen better days, but we registered anyway.
Get me out of here!! Let’s go to Chile. Surely it will be better. (?)
A few observations about the parts of Bolivia we saw: the car and van make of choice is Toyota, the main meat is pollo (chicken), gas stations are guarded by armed policia, and they are everywhere in the cities, the countryside is populated with herds of sheep and alpaca, most villages appear disserted although there is probably a family or two still living in the crumbling houses, the economic conditions outside of La Paz are dreadful and there are ferral dogs everywhere.
We have not seen any bugs so far in South America. Well, 1 black beetle on the sidewalk somewhere, and a couple of house flies, but no spiders, no mosquitoes, no centipedes, nor any butterflies. Our windshields have been cleaned twice and that was only due to dust and a bit of rain. Weird!
